It would be negligent not to remark on the tradition of hospitality and friendliness that permeates every social encounter. Not since I left the north of England in 1979 have I been routinely greeted by hellos and guddays (not that gudday had actually reached Yorkshire…) The food is equally generous – not simply in quantity (we tend to order one meal and share it!) but in its inclusivity and sheer breadth of food traditions.

Australian chefs and cooks have such access to so many styles, to so much high quality produce that we have hardly ever been disappointed – except when we have mistimed our dining. Yesterday’s bistro kitchen closed at 20.00 – but they took pity on us. We spotted the sign below at a roadside cafe…