Tuesday 2 April 2024
We walked across the Arno’s bridge in the direction of the station, pulling our heavy luggage over the bumpy pavements to catch a comfortable Rome-bound train whose carozza 4 stopped exactly alongside us, with our six booked seats awaiting us inside.

The Treno Italia app works very well (which is more than can be said for a-bus.com!)

We arrived in Follonica with two minutes to catch the 12.44 bus to Massa Marittima; the scrabble to buy tickets salvaged by Lucy’s cash.

We arrived at the Duca del Mare at 14.00 (with hardly any guests – so early in the season) and booked into two comfortable rooms each with a balcony and sea view.

The host greeted us warmly and regularly fed Olive little chocolate eggs from the counter. The discount of 15% drew us to ristorante Valli, facing the Duomo in a very empty square in beautiful clear sunshine. Olive loved the chips !

I sent the children into the Duomo to see the tortoises which support the altar, only to discover that the Easter frontal and flowers completely hid them from view! I was very disappointed, they were simply puzzled. We walked the beautiful narrow streets with few other tourists, through the upper gate and on to the Seminario and the remains of the castle.

Ernest, disappointed that he hadn’t climbed Pisa’s tower, extracted a promise that we would climb up the Torre del Candeliere and fantastic walkway – tomorrow.

We wound our way back to the lower town, to be fêted by Magdi with aperitivi and much warmth. From him we learned that heavy rain on Pasquetta (Easter Monday) had kiboshed the town’s trade and the season would now be very slow starting.

Il Gatto e la Volpe was voted best family supper; the host was very socievole and Lucy loved it!

Wednesday 3 April 2024
Breakfast was dull, with neither fruit nor vegetables, but the children enjoyed the cake and toast. We set off up the very steep street to reach the Torre as promised….

I pulled out at the first very steep and narrow ladder but the others enjoyed the climb and fantastic views.

We moved on to the supermarket (in pursuit of vegetables – notably raddichio !) and a short spell in the playground; and onto la Tana dei Brilli for a very good lunch.

Immediately after we ran into first Monica, and then Costanza in the street, before walking down to Massa Vecchia to suss out the fate of the winery, and en route saw skilful children negotiating the rough mountain bike cycle track alongside the agriturismo. The weather was perfect, and the views fantastic, as the uphill return climb absorbed some of the children’s energy.

Back to the hotel for a break and several games of Uno while James and Lucy went out on their own, before an indoor barbecue at Taverna dei Vecchio Borgo with a modest Fiorentina and some pasta. The children have been fantastic at every meal!

Thursday 4 April 24
We made a slow start after a late night with our main destination the Sassetta exhibition in the Museale San Pietro all’Orto, including a glimpse of the Mechanical Organs next door. This small gallery in what used to be the monastery of the Augustinian community alongside, has been a favourite for years; a modest size, with excellent air-conditioning! The grass in the cloisters was awash with daisies!

My researches on transport to Siena pointed to either a taxi, or a tedious three-sides-round-a-square journey by bus to Follonica, train to Grosseto, and bus to Siena. Nevertheless, tickets were purchased for the first and third legs from the Tabacchi, and on-line for the train. (Briefly I got excited by a mid-morning bus which runs in the school holidays, only to discover – fortunately – the schools have already reopened after Easter).

We had arranged to lunch with Costanza at La Padellaccia del Viggia, after which she invited us all to see her apartment on the via della Libertà, which she has successfully divided into separate living spaces for herself, GianPaolo and at the moment, her son. The views from her windows are magnificent!

As we wondered across the main square, Lucy suggested we pop into the cathedral, where the sharp-eyed Olive spotted a cleaner, and together she and I asked if we might peep under the altar frontal. The kind woman smiled and immediately moved the Easter flowers and pulled back the frontal. The children were delighted by both the tortoises and the geese on the tomb of San Cerbone!

Le Logge provided spectacularly good pizzas around six o’clock for the family, and later David and I ate very well at Osteria La Troncha whose new owners are clearly succeeding to please in a way the previous Maremmamani (Maremma men) didn’t attempt. At some point we called in at Grassini and greeted Alberto whose ristorante remains unsold and his family continues to grow with lots of nipoti…

Friday 5 April 2024
Final stroll around the square after a slow start to buy one or two things to take home, before returning to the hotel to check out and trundle the luggage to the nearby bus stop. The 12.10 arrived late (it always does, according to the person who served us breakfast and lives in Follonica) but we just made the train to Grosetto, and after a family group loo stop for €1 on Grosetto station platform we caught the 13.45 bus to Siena.

An hour later, after fascinating journey north through rural southern Tuscany, we arrived at the bus terminus on Viale Tozzi alongside the via dei Montamini which follows the Francigena from Porta Camollia directly to the Campo, and to our apartment of the same name at 57 Via Banchi di Sopra.

One more key safe and eighty eight steps later we reached our three bedroomed apartment, micro-managed by Paolo. It was spacious and well-equipped, and very convenient. Stage three of our tuscan tour was about to begin…. With the magnificent Campo, a stone’s throw away!