Friday 5 April

The weather was astonishingly good! Clear blue skies and warm sun throughout the weekend drew the crowds to one of Italy’s most beautiful cities, as we moved from wonderfully quiet Massa Marittima to a busy, full-on cultural magnet.

The bus from Grosetto tipped us out at 15.00, only a ten minute walk from our next apartment, in 57 via Banchi di Sopra, which follows the route of the old pilgrim way to Rome, the Francigena, directly into the extraordinary Campo – the heart of this fascinating medieval city.

We negotiated the enormous doors, found the key safe and our keys, and then headed up this tall, multi-floored building counting 88 steps to our doorway. The apartment itself was excellent: two bedrooms, bathroom, a living area, well-equipped kitchen and a dining table on one level, and a modern metal spiral stair up to an en suite bedroom under the roof. Probably to be avoided in the hot summer, but very comfortable for us in April.

Of course we’d missed lunch, and as even a small army marches on its stomach we headed to the Campo, to find one of the many gelaterie we had promised Olive..

and then we wandered through the busy centre, getting our bearings and eyeing up pizzerie for supper

By the evening the crowd began to thin, and the Campo, dominated by the great Torre was spectacular

We were tired, and although there was talk of queueing at ten o’clock the next morning to buy tickets to climb this Torre and to enter the Museo Civico, we settled for pizzas in the Bar Il Palio in the Campo and an early night, after a brief shopping expedition in pursuit of pasta and more raddichio for breakfast. David and I went in search of an enoteca – Sale Fino di Alice, for some wine and crema di ceci

Saturday 6 April

James was hellbent on recovering the outdoor cafe he had spotted yesterday from the bus, with its fantastic view of the Cathedral, high on a ridge. We found it – and collected a second fabulous family photo along with the view!

I had already explained the Palio to Ernest and Olive, the horse race held every year on 2 July and 16 August in the Campo, and even watched U Tube clips of last year’s race, with its inevitable collisions and chaos. (The following photos are dodgy screenshots taken from the clips…)

We inspected the course, astonished at the tight corners and camber, which the compressed sand doesn’t entirely improve. Lucy researched the very complicated process by which horses are trained and selected, and then allocated (by lots) to each competing contrada or district. We even learned that only 10 of a possible 17 contrade can compete. The seven who don’t compete automatically have a place next time. Very serious stuff …

But I had seriously underestimated just how fascinating the contrade were to Ernest and Olive!

Initially I had equipped both children each with a postcard of the flags, but the grown-ups quickly realised that nothing would take priority over our actually visiting each district in turn. They all have their own special symbol – mostly animals, real and mythical (including a two-headed eagle and a unicorn) and the odd shell; and each one is displayed, in one way or another, in each contrada. Locating the different contrade and hunting the symbols made great entertainment for children. We walked for miles!

Ernest opted for the chiocciola (snail) and Olive for the giraffa, (you guess!) and armed with their respective flags we set off in search of the little signs and notices, often high up above the street names, and the fountains and figures.

Ernest was incredibly good at using the map (below) – no bigger than a postcard – to find the areas of the city and then to locate solid evidence of each contrade; sometimes a wall plaque, sometimes a fountain, sometimes an elaborate street light. The adults were in awe of their commitment as we traipsed well off the beaten tracks in pursuit of all seventeen. It was a great way to see the city!

We had a lovely quiet lunch only 50 m from the Campo in La Taverna di Bacco midway through the hunt. The grown ups needed to sit down! James and Lucy opted for a pasta supper with the children while David and I headed for the Enoteca I Terzi , and ate very well.

Sunday 7 April

James and Ernest tackled the Torre at 11.30, David went shopping, while Lucy, Olive and I tried to relocate a quiet ristorante Il Pomodorino we’d walked past yesterday. It took us ages, despite it being near the Alma Domus, a former convent in which Catherine of Siena had lived, and now a hotel where David and I had stayed a few years ago.

We ate lunch there with fabulous views over one of the valleys, towards the extraordinary Duomo. It was a very hot day, (27 deg C!) and we were all over-dressed, but our ristorante was quiet and helpful.

I had so much wanted everyone to see the extraordinary frescoes of Good and Bad Government within the Museo Civico – such rare secular medieval art – but those galleries were closed for restoration and we had to make do with the other rooms and the magnificent views that afternoon. Another time!

Likewise, the Cathedral’s exquisite interior, the Baptistry and the extraordinary Maestà by Duccio will need another visit. We were running out of steam, but while strolling around amongst the crowds we came upon several little bands, processions, and flag waving rehearsals, warming up for a mini event.

Finally, after a spot of desultory packing, the family headed out for an early evening in the great Campo, listening to the many sounds (including house martins) and consuming yet more ice cream, and admiring the contrade flags now adorning the Town Hall, before returning to the apartment, for pasta and bed.

David and I ate at the Antica Osteria da Divo, another excellent meal. They nearly always are, but Siena is very expensive, and here we had to share the cave with an out of control child and hopeless parents….

Monday 8 April 2024

I had already researched the remarkable travelator that now operates from just beyond the Porta Camollia, dropping down 67metres of height, to reach the rail station. It took 30 minutes with luggage and children (add five more minutes for the 88 steps down from the apartment!) to reach it, but down we went, right into the tunnel beneath the railway lines. After a brief flirtation with an earlier if slow train – which was cancelled – we transferred to the one we had planned to catch. The tension mounted as we learned there was a blockage on the track…

We arrived at Empoli two minutes before the train James and Lucy had planned to catch left for Pisa Centrale. James led the charge, carrying two 15 kg cases, while Lucy shepherded Ernest and Olive, and we brought up the rear… They leapt on; the doors closed and off they headed for the airport at Pisa. We turned tail and just caught the Florence train, for the first leg of our journey to Portogruaro in Venezia. Three different trains, in three minutes !

i was relieved to receive the photo of them lunching outside Pisa airport….